Nissan Skyline R34 GT-R V-Spec II

The case for the R34 GT-R V-Spec II

The R34 Skyline GT-R is the last of the straight-six Skyline GT-Rs, and for many enthusiasts the most desirable. It uses a 2.6-litre RB26DETT twin-turbo inline-six, officially rated at 276 bhp, with a 6-speed manual gearbox and ATTESA E-TS all-wheel drive. The V-Spec II adds a carbon fibre bonnet, a rear diffuser and a revised ATTESA calibration.

The R34 is a technological showcase. It has four-wheel steering, an active differential and a sophisticated all-wheel-drive system. The engine is famously tunable, and the aftermarket is enormous. It is also a usable car by 1990s standards, with four seats and a real boot. The driving experience is unlike a modern car: the steering is hydraulic, the gearbox is mechanical and the turbo lag is part of the character.

The R34 has become a collector's car. Values have risen sharply, especially for V-Spec II and Nür models. The challenge is finding an unmodified car with a clean history. Many cars have been modified, crashed or rusted, and the cost of putting one right can be high.

What it costs to run

A minor service at a Skyline specialist is £300 to £500, and a major service is £700 to £1,000. The RB26 needs regular oil changes and careful warm-up. A full engine rebuild is £8,000 to £15,000, depending on the spec and the damage. The twin turbochargers can fail, and a replacement pair is £2,000 to £4,000.

Tyres are £600 to £800 for a set of 18-inch rubber. Discs and pads typically cost £800 to £1,200. The ATTESA system and the HICAS four-wheel steering can develop faults, and the parts are expensive. The gearbox synchros can wear, and a rebuild is £2,000 to £3,000. On a run you might see 20-25 mpg; town driving drops to the mid-teens. Classic or agreed-value cover is the usual route.

Known weak points

Rust is the biggest issue. The rear arches, sills, strut towers, boot floor and jacking points are all known problem areas. The R34 is an old car, and many examples have been repaired badly. A car with fresh underseal may be hiding serious corrosion. Inspect it on a lift and use a borescope.

Rust repairs on an R34 are not like a modern car. Rear arch repair panels are available, but a proper repair involves cutting out the rot, welding in new metal and repainting. A car with bubbling arches can cost £3,000 to £6,000 to put right, and a full sill and floor repair can exceed that. The rear strut towers and the boot floor are structural, and corrosion there is a serious negotiation point. Fresh underseal is not proof of a sound car; it can hide a repaired floor.

The RB26 is robust but sensitive to neglect. Oil starvation can cause bearing failure, especially on cars that have been tracked or modified. The oil pump and the sump should be upgraded on a high-performance car. Turbo seals fail, and the ceramic turbines on early cars can break. The coil packs, airflow meters and idle control valves can cause running problems. The ATTESA pump and the HICAS system can fail.

The gearbox synchros wear, especially second gear. Listen for differential whine and check for leaks. The interior is fragile, and the original trim is expensive. Many cars have been modified with body kits, wheels and engine upgrades. A modified car can be worth less than a standard one unless the work is documented and high quality.

What to check before buying

Start with the file, not the paint. A Japanese auction sheet, import documents and a service history are valuable. Check the chassis number and the engine number against the documents. A car with a verified mileage and a clean auction grade is worth a premium.

The V-Spec II is identified by its carbon fibre bonnet with a NACA duct, a rear diffuser and a revised ATTESA calibration. The bonnet is often replaced or painted, so check the VIN plate and the build sheet. A genuine V-Spec II carries a premium, and a replica is worth less. The Nür spec adds further chassis and aero changes; verify the model code rather than trusting the badges.

Inspect the body thoroughly. Look at the rear arches from inside the boot, the jacking points, the sills, the floor pans and the strut towers. Check the boot floor and the suspension towers for rust. A paint depth gauge will show previous repairs. A car with a full restoration and photographs of the work is worth more than a car with a fresh paint job and no evidence.

Start the engine from cold and listen for turbo whistle, bearing noise and exhaust leaks. Check for oil smoke on start-up and under load. A compression test and a leakdown test are essential. Check the oil pressure and the turbo boost. Drive the car and check the gearbox for synchro crunch, the ATTESA system for operation and the HICAS for warning lights. Check the brakes, steering and electrics.

Market and depreciation

The R34 GT-R market is mature and expensive. A good V-Spec II with 60,000 to 100,000 miles was £80,000 to £120,000 at the time of writing. A low-mileage, original car was £120,000 to £150,000. The Nür was £150,000 or more. Project cars were £40,000 to £60,000, but they can cost more to restore than they are worth.

The R34 market is driven by originality and documentation. A car with a Japanese auction sheet and a continuous history is worth more than a similar car with gaps in its paperwork.

Importing an R34 to the UK is now a well-trodden path, but the paperwork still matters. The car should have a Japanese export certificate, a UK IVA or MOT history and a customs declaration. A car that has been in the UK for years should have a V5C and a history file. Insurance is specialist and agreed-value; a standard policy will not cover a modified car correctly.

Who it suits

The R34 GT-R suits the collector who wants a piece of JDM history and a car that is rewarding to drive. It is not a daily driver, and it is not a cheap hobby. It suits someone with a garage, a maintenance budget and a willingness to chase parts. It also suits an investor who understands the market and is prepared to hold for the long term.

If you want the R34 experience without the collector premium, a GT-R GTR or a modified car is cheaper. If you want a more modern car, the R35 GT-R is faster and more usable. If you want a lighter, more analogue car, the R32 GT-R is the purist's choice.

Alternatives

The R32 GT-R is lighter, simpler and cheaper, but it is older and rust is a bigger problem. The R35 GT-R is a modern supercar killer, with a dual-clutch gearbox and more power, but it lacks the R34's character. The Toyota Supra A80 is a similar concept, with a 2JZ engine and rear-wheel drive, but it is less practical. The Mitsubishi Evo VI is a rally-bred rival, with a turbo four and all-wheel drive, but it is a different kind of car.

The R34 GT-R is a legend. It is not the fastest car in its class, but it is one of the most iconic.

How this review was compiled

This review is based on Nissan's published technical information, owner reports from GT-R Life and the Skyline Owners Club, UK Skyline specialists and current Auto Trader listings. The market sets the price; these figures are a guide.